The amazing Biltmore

Friday, Aug 10

A foggy start to the day, which seems to be the norm, and rain predicted, but the sun showed its lovely face, and there were only puffy white clouds as we set out for the Biltmore Estate.   I hadn’t gotten very far into my book about its history, but I did look  online to get some additional insight into the very fascinating history of the largest residence in the United States.  At 135,000 square feet, it has over 4 acres of floor space, 35 bedrooms, 43 bathrooms,  and 65 fireplaces!  

It was originally built on 125,000 acres, and though some land was sold off to help pay expenses, it  still remains an 80,000 acre estate of spectacular gardens and Frederick Law Olmstead planned grounds.  The three mile drive from the entrance to the estate was actually carefully planned by Olmstead to surround visitors with lush vegetation, and then have the magnificent estate pop into view at the end.  He and the architect, Richard Morris Hunt, who also designed Gray Towers in Milford, PA which we had visited earlier in our trip, worked together to take full advantage of the sight, and provide a Chateau type estate  beyond compare.  

Our first view of the house after walking the trail from the parking area....my choice to walk rather than shuttle!

Gifford Pinchot, who owned Gray Towers and started the Forest Service, also figured into the equation, with his knowledge of forests and trees, which were planned for a large portion of the acreage.  Later, the first school of forestry was supported by the Vanderbilts and located nearby.   I always find it so interesting when our exploration ends up connecting people we have learned about! 

Our arrival coincided with that of many, and there was a line to enter the house, so we headed for the Stables, where we toured the shops that are in former tac rooms, and then to lunch in what had been the stables!  We lucked out and got a booth in one of the stables, rather than a table on the open floor, and a super nice waitress, who assured us that the Pimento Cheese dip was exceptional, and offered us help with anything we wanted to know when she saw me studying the map.  

The stables were a wing to the side of the mansion, out of sight as visitors approached. 

plaques on walls near each shop showed what had occupied each room.  

delicioius corn soup and pimento cheese dip!

She was spot on about the cheese dip!  We enjoyed a leisurely lunch, then headed back to the house, where the lines had disappeared, and collected two audio guides to assist us on our exploration.  I marveled to the woman there that the crowds were heavy, and wondered if it was the Chihuly exhibit, but she said it was also because it was the last week before school started again.  Bad timing on our part!  We shuffled along in lines to see the rooms, and it would have been nice to have been less crowded, but it was still fascinating.  Especially the swimming pool and bowling alley in the basement!  

Upon entering, this winter garden in the center of the foyer features a fountain sculpture "Boy Stealing Geese," now surrounded by Chihuly glass sculptures for the special exhibit.

The Banquet Hall is seven stories high and was used for formal dinners.  The largest reported was 60 seated at this table, but a smaller table was sometimes used in front of the triple fireplace below for family and friends. 

The breakfast and lunch room! Two paintings by Renoir appear in this room. 

This room was the Salon, or sitting area, and french doors opened to the covered Loggia, so doors could be opened and the outdoors enjoyed from this room.

The far wall featured more of the art collection, these mostly wood block prints, and an unusual rhinoceros print.  Also of note here is the black heating grate of the central heating  system, modern technology that Vanderbilt wanted the home to feature, in addition to electricity.

The music room.....

 ....and then out to the Loggia, with its spectacular view of the beautiful countryside, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, who transformed the worn out farmland into beautiful gardens and forests.

Interesting to note the origins of the name, Biltmore.  George's heritage was Dutch, the family name sometimes spelled Van de Bilt, so he used the "Bilt" and then the English word "moor" , with the spelling altered, meaning vast spaces, but infertile ones, which the land was when purchased.

Olmsted was first doubtful of using the depleted  acreage, but soon fell in love with its charms, and had the idea to make part forest, and part gardens, and managed to transform the land with much time and money to the beauty it is today.

Back inside to the library, with half of George's 22,000 book collection.  The upper level had doors, so that guests could readily access the books from the upstairs guest rooms.  

We climbed a back staircase to a second floor which contained guest rooms, and this upper living area, where paintings by John Singer Seargent of Olmsted and the architect  Richard Morris Hunt hung.  Commissioned by Vanderbilt, Seargent came to the mansion to paint these aging talents, who considered the Biltmore their crowning glories, and were the last project each completed.  

Next down the grand staircase, featuring a 4 story chandelier, back to the main floor, and then to the basement. 

A tunnel in the basement showed the foundation and inside of the thick walls  and led to the "Halloween Room" , so named because at a New Years party, the guests were invited to paint the walls, and many paintings featured images that invoked the feeling of that holiday. 

The room had many photos of the construction, including this one showing the workers on the long approach road. 

And the piece de resistance, the 2 lane bowling alley!  The tapestry room directly above this room is of the exact dimensions to allow the two lanes below. 

These were the women's dressing rooms, where they could change into riding clothing, or swim suits, as it was not considered appropriate to walk through the house in that attire.  The rooms led down the hallway to the inside swimming pool.....

......and the very well equipped gym!  Note the steam showers behind the parallel bars, and the wooden dumb bells on the wall. 

The kitchen and a dumbwaiter were also in the basement, as well as the staff dining room, and servant quarters, which were very roomy  Many of the servants had never had a room of their own, so they considered it quite a luxury.  Pantries, a rotisserie  kitchen, a pastry kitchen, and a walk in refrigerator were also located on this level. Instead of ice boxes, the Biltmore had an early type of mechanical refrigeration, and large cans contained milk from the estate's famous dairy cows, said to produce a higher quality, better tasting milk and cream.  The milk became a dairy business for the estate that flourished. 

The laundry room and this folding and ironing room were state of the art, and allowed plenty of room for all the linen maintenance  that needed to be accomplished. 

Back upstairs was the so called 'bachelor wing" included this pool room, as well as  smoking and gun rooms.  

After George's untimely death at 51 due to complications from an apendectomy, Edith and their only child, daughter Cornelia, lived in what had been these rooms and closed off the rest of the house to save money.  When Cornelia later married John Cecil, they and their children lived in the home.  The children own and manage the estate to this day.  

Chihuly in the garden began in earnest with  the Italian walled garden

On our walk to the next garden, a great view of the estate peeking out

the gardens themselves were gorgeous!

Spectacular orchids inside the atrium

walking back up from the gardens, another view of the estate

the exterior of the stairwell

We had purchased the tickets that allowed for the evening viewing, and Clem thought we should do Antler Village and our wine tasting  when we returned, and head back for a rest.  Lots of walking from the lot to the house, and then through the house and gardens, and we were running out of steam, but the clouds were moving in, and I didn’t want to chance us not coming back, so I suggested we at least do a drive by. 

Antler Village is on the grounds, but 5 miles from the house!  It is the area that houses the winery started by the grand son,  and serves as the service area for the hotel on the grounds where you can stay, and consists of a creamery and some shops and restaurants.  By the time we got there, our feet had  a bit of a rest just sitting in the car, and we decided to check it out.  Or at least, I did, and Clem agreed to go along!

One can spend the night at the hotel seen on the hill behind the village 

 From the village, a tunnel leads to the winery, and is adorned with signage about the history.  The dairy was said to produce the finest quality milk, cream, and of course, ice cream.

First glimpse of the tasting room, where the bride to be and presumably her attendants were tasting, while we awaited our turn. 

The wine tasting was good and the ice cream was great, and live music was playing on the green, so we enjoyed sitting and relaxing there for a bit before heading back to feed the cats and rest up for the evening.  However, by the time we returned, it was probably 5:30, and we drove in and out of some rain, and we were not back more than a half hour when it started coming down in buckets!  Before long there were rivers of water running through the camp ground!  It didn’t stop until around 9pm, and neither of us were in the mood to go then and wade through wet grass to see the glass lit up.  To be honest, I think we have seen so much Chihuly, we are kind of saturated, and less in awe than the many who are coming here to see it.  It is beautiful lit, but we have even seen that.  So we may pay an upgrade (tickets are rain or shine!)  and try to see it another night, but then again, we may not.  I’m glad we went during the day and got a good tour, which we had not done the last time here, and at least for the moment, I am satisfied.